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A beginner's guide to fell walking in the dales

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  • 24th March 2019
A beginner's guide to fell walking in the dales

Why the Dales Are Made for Beginners

The Yorkshire Dales are a wonderful place to learn to fell walk. The hills are real hills — Ingleborough, Pen-y-ghent and Whernside all ask a proper day's effort — but they are rarely as remote or as steep as the higher fells further north. Dry stone walls, barns and sheep tracks criss-cross the slopes, so you are seldom far from a village, a road or another walker. Many paths are waymarked, though plenty of excellent ones are not, which is part of the pleasure.

Add limestone scenery, hay meadows, becks tumbling through gills and a tea shop at the end of most valleys, and you have the perfect training ground. Start small, build up, and you will be ticking off the big three before the year is out.

Boots, Layers and Kit That Earns Its Place

Good footwear matters more than anything else. Choose waterproof boots with decent ankle support and, crucially, wear them in on short local walks before you take them up a fell. Blisters end more walks than bad weather does. Wear wool or synthetic socks rather than cotton, and pack a spare pair.

Layering is the other skill worth learning early. A typical dales day in May can swing from warm sun in the valley to cold, wet wind on the top, so dress in three parts: a base layer that wicks, a fleece or light insulated mid-layer, and a waterproof shell with matching trousers. Take a hat and gloves whatever the month.

In a 20–25 litre rucksack, carry:

  • Plenty of water — at least 1.5 litres, more in summer
  • Sandwiches, flapjack or other slow-release food
  • A paper map and a compass, plus a headtorch and spare batteries
  • A whistle and a foil emergency blanket
  • A fully charged phone and a power bank, but never treat the phone as your navigation
  • Sunscreen and midge repellent in the warmer months

Trekking poles are genuinely useful on steep descents and cost nothing in pride once your knees start complaining.

Learn to Read the Map Before You Need It

Buy a 1:25,000 map of your chosen area — the detail is worth it for beginners — and spend twenty minutes at the kitchen table with it before you go. Find your start point, trace the route with your finger and note the features you will pass: a wall corner, a beck, a gate, a small plantation.

Learn three things well. First, contours: tight lines mean steep ground, widely spaced lines mean gentle. Second, the difference between a footpath, a bridleway and a track. Third, how to set the map using your compass so that the ground in front of you matches the paper in your hands.

Then use handrails — follow a wall, a stream or a fence line to keep yourself right. If the mist comes down, stop, check where you are, and trust the map rather than your memory. Mobile signal in the dales is patchy at best in the valleys and often absent on the tops.

Check the Weather Twice — Then Again

Look at a mountain-specific forecast the evening before and again on the morning. Wind speed matters as much as rain: a steady 40mph on an exposed ridge will make a short walk feel serious. Check the cloud base too. If the tops are forecast to be shrouded, swap your high route for a valley walk and save the summit for another day.

Set a turn-back time and stick to it. Most beginners underestimate how long a climb takes and overestimate how long daylight lasts. In winter, the dales get dark by half past four, so plan to be down well before then.

Routes to Cut Your Teeth On

These are gentle introductions with good paths and easy navigation:

  • Malham to Janet's Foss and Gordale Scar — roughly four miles, dramatic limestone scenery, and you can turn back at the waterfall if the scramble looks beyond you.
  • Grassington to Conistone Pie — a steady climb to a distinctive limestone outcrop with wonderful Wharfedale views.
  • Buckden to Buckden Pike — about six miles there and back, a proper climb on a clear track, with a memorial at the top.
  • Aysgarth Falls and the surrounding woods — flat, beautiful and ideal for testing new boots and a full rucksack.

Coming Home Safely

Tell someone where you are going, your route and your expected return time, and text them when you are back at the car. Take a friend for your first few big days out. On the hill, give cattle with calves a wide berth, keep dogs on leads during lambing and ground-nesting season, and leave every gate exactly as you found it.

Watch your footing on limestone pavement, where the gaps between the clints can twist an ankle, and avoid peat bogs after heavy rain. Take all litter home, stick to paths where erosion is a problem, and carry a little more than you think you need. In an emergency, dial 999, ask for the police, then ask for mountain rescue, and give them a grid reference if you can.

Above all, enjoy it. The dales reward patience: pick a fine day, walk within yourself, and the hills will keep giving you reasons to come back.

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Comments
ALina Kelian
19th May 2018 Reply

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19th May 2018 Reply

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21th May 2018 Reply

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