Why drying your own herbs is worth the effort

There is something deeply satisfying about walking to the end of the garden with a pair of scissors and coming back with a bundle of mint, thyme or rosemary that would cost a small fortune in the supermarket. When those herbs are at their peak in midsummer, you cannot possibly eat them all fast enough. Drying is the old-fashioned answer, and it remains one of the most reliable ways to keep that flavour going well into the winter months.

Beyond the obvious pleasure of it, drying saves money and cuts waste. A single mature rosemary bush can supply you with jar after jar of dried needles for years, and a glut of mint that would otherwise wilt in the fridge can be turned into a year's worth of tea. The equipment needed is minimal: string, a few paper bags, and somewhere warm, dark and well ventilated.

Choosing the right moment to harvest

Timing matters more than most people realise. Herbs are at their most aromatic just before they flower, when the essential oils are concentrated in the leaves. Once a plant bolts and sends up blossoms, those oils are diverted into seed production and the flavour turns bitter or woody.

Pick on a dry morning after the dew has lifted but before the heat of the day, ideally around mid-morning. Never harvest wet herbs, as moisture encourages mould during drying. Give them a gentle shake to dislodge insects, and avoid washing them unless they are genuinely grubby. If you must rinse them, pat them thoroughly dry with a clean tea towel and leave them to air for an hour before you begin.

Annual herbs such as basil, mint and parsley respond well to a hard cut, which encourages fresh growth. Woody perennials like rosemary, thyme and sage prefer a lighter trim, taking no more than a third of the plant at any one time.

Air drying: the traditional method

Air drying is the gentlest approach and suits low-moisture herbs best. Rosemary, thyme, sage, oregano, marjoram and summer savory all dry beautifully this way. Basil, mint and parsley are trickier because they hold more water, though they can still be air dried in a warm, airy room.

• Bunch and tie: Gather six to eight stems into a loose bundle and secure with string, leaving a loop for hanging.
• Hang upside down: Suspend the bundles in a dark, dry, well-ventilated spot such as an airing cupboard, a spare room or a shed with a window. Direct sunlight fades colour and flavour.
• Use paper bags for seed-heavy herbs: Slip a perforated paper bag over the bunch to catch any leaves or seeds that drop, and to keep dust off.
• Check after ten to fourteen days: The herbs are ready when the leaves crumble easily between your fingers and the stems snap rather than bend.

If you live somewhere humid, a dehumidifier running nearby will speed things along considerably. Damp air is the enemy here, and a batch that dries slowly is far more likely to go mouldy.

Speedier options: oven and microwave

When time is short or the weather has turned, gentle heat works well. The key word is gentle. Anything above around 40°C will cook the herbs rather than dry them, and you will lose much of the aroma that makes home-dried herbs so superior.

For the oven, spread clean leaves or small sprigs in a single layer on a baking tray lined with baking parchment. Set the oven to its lowest setting, ideally with the door propped slightly ajar to let moisture escape. Check every ten minutes. Thyme and rosemary may take an hour; basil and parsley can be done in twenty to thirty minutes.

A microwave works surprisingly well for small quantities. Lay leaves between two sheets of kitchen paper and heat in short bursts of twenty to thirty seconds, turning between each. Stop as soon as the leaves feel crisp, as they scorch in seconds.

Storing your dried herbs properly

Once dried, herbs should be handled carefully. Strip the leaves from the stems over a bowl, discarding anything woody, and leave the pieces whole rather than crushing them. Crushing releases the oils, so save that for when you cook.

• Use small glass jars with airtight lids, cleaned and completely dry.
• Label each jar with the herb name and the month you dried it.
• Store in a cool, dark cupboard away from the cooker, where heat and steam will spoil them.
• Keep whole leaves intact and crumble just before use for the best flavour.

Most dried herbs hold their potency for a year. After that they are perfectly safe but increasingly dull, so plan to restock each summer. A quick sniff test will tell you everything: if a jar smells of dust rather than rosemary, it is time to start again.

A few variety-specific tips

Different herbs behave in different ways, and a little knowledge goes a long way. Mint dries quickly but loses its bite, so use it generously in teas and infusions. Thyme and rosemary are the champions of drying, holding their flavour for months and improving slow-cooked stews and roasts. Sage becomes milder once dried, which many cooks prefer. Parsley and chives are best frozen rather than dried, as they turn disappointingly bland. Basil can be dried, but it will never match the fresh leaf, so consider it a winter standby rather than a replacement.

Start with one or two herbs this year, get a feel for the process, and before long you will have a shelf of jars that carries the scent of your garden right through to spring.